Hotel - Atlantis Dubai

All-inclusive holidays have come full circle from cheap packages to the height of luxury. Our correspondent James Edgar finds why you'll never want to leave "Hotel Dubai".

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Sharks are circling in the lagoon 30 metres below and all my senses are screaming at me not to do it.

Trying not to look down, I shuffle towards the precipice - and take the plunge.

It takes just a few seconds to reach the bottom of the Leap of Faith slide at Aquaventure in Dubai, the Middle East's largest water park, but the buzz lasts all day.

The huge beachside attraction is part of Atlantis The Palm hotel, which sits at the top of a man-made island sticking out of the Arabian Gulf.

And this wet and wild wonderland is much more my kind of playground than the one with skyscrapers and fast cars in the desert city I can see across the water.

For a moment I am its conqueror - until a 10-year-old girl flies into the pool and runs back up the Mesopotamian-style ziggurat for another go.

Aquaventure is a huge hit with kids, and no wonder. It's the largest in Dubai, covering 17 hectares, with seven water slides, white-water rapids and a 2.3-kilometre lazy river, all powered by 18 million litres of water.

Just before the Leap of Faith spits you out, you shoot through a transparent tunnel past sharks and stingrays cutting through a lagoon like shadows.

Announcing its arrival with a bang in September 2008, the Atlantis put on a fireworks display that could be seen from space.

Unashamedly flamboyant, luxurious and decadent, it symbolises the UAE city whose residents talk about "the haves, and the have yachts".

Even the 65,000 different fish swimming in the hotel's massive 11 million-litre centrepiece fish tank, The Ambassador Lagoon, receive the promise of only "restaurant-grade" produce when it comes to dinner time. And for those looking for an experience that's even more up close and personal, you can join one of Atlantis divers, who go into the tank to feed the animals by hand.

But Atlantis isn't all about adventure and activity, so I decide to take things down a notch or two, and head indoors to the tranquil, grown-up surroundings of the ShuiQi Spa.

I have to confess, I'm not really one for beauty treatments. Aromatherapy oils, tooting pan pipes and foot baths don't generally do it for me, so I asked my masseur to give me a more heavy-handed workout. He didn't hold back.

The softly spoken, 50kg gentleman seemed to summon the strength of a cage fighter as he kneaded my shoulders, working away at the knots. At one point I was sure he was walking up and down my back.

"Too hard?" he whispered.

"No," I squeaked, not wanting to back down from my bullish request. And I'm glad I didn't, because I felt exhilarated afterwards.

Set over two floors, the spa is the perfect retreat for adults looking to escape the full-on commotion of the resort at large. And for the ultimate blend of romance and indulgence, couples can luxuriate in the Royal Spa Suite with a private terrace and hot tub.

It's perfectly possible not to leave the Atlantis complex for the entire duration of a holiday, but for the slightly more adventurous traveller, the city has a lot to see and do.

The resort is well-placed for venturing into Dubai, with its own station on the Palm Jumeirah Monorail, which takes passengers to the Gateway station where the Palm meets the mainland.

Just a couple of miles up the road is the Dubai Mall, the largest shopping centre in the world, which includes an ice rink, aquarium, cinemas and dozens of places to eat.

Alongside the mall stands the current tallest building in the world, the Burj Khalifa. Standing at 828 metres, it soars up like a needle trying to pop the sky.

It's mind-boggling to stand back and look up at the 160 floors, while the viewing platform offers spectacular views across the city.

Other activities around and about include trips to the historic souks, palaces and mosques, and days out in the desert.

Back at Atlantis, the hotel offers yet another assault on the senses at night - the tastes and smells of its culinary experience.

The resort has a whopping 17 restaurants to choose from, so whether you're looking for a quick bite or a gastronomic blow-out, there will always be plenty to satisfy you. World class chefs whose work is featured here include Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, Giorgio Locatelli and Michel Rostang.

My own favourite was Nobu, which serves up a mouth-watering array of contemporary Japanese cuisine. A seared black cod dish was delicate and succulent, while the cheesecake was the best I've ever tasted.

Seafire offers steaks and seafood, while Levantine has a delicious Arabian menu with the bonus of a belly dance show every half an hour.

In its own way, this resort is as surreal as Disneyworld - but it's hugely popular with guests from around the world, with its 1,600 rooms full virtually all year round, even in the height of summer when the mercury rises to well above 45 degrees.

Most of the bedrooms either face the pool complex, beach and city, or as mine did, out over the Gulf.

Atlantis' sense of fun and adventure makes it a perfect destination for young families, but with its serene spa, long beach, award-winning restaurants and buzzing nightclub, adult holidaymakers will love it too.

ATLANTIS, DUBAI

- BEST FOR: Glitz, glamour and decadent indulgence.

- TIME TO GO: November-March.

- DON'T MISS: The Dubai fountains by the Burj Khalifa, which take place every lunchtime and evening.

- NEED TO KNOW: The United Arab Emirates is a Muslim country, with strict laws and customs.

- DON'T FORGET: Drink plenty of water and always wear suncream.

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