Cruising along the Duoro River in Portugal puts you right in the heart of where the world-famous tipple originated. Bev Malzard reports from a magnificent valley.
It translates from Rio Douro to 'River of Gold'; It begins in northern central Spain and flows to it's outlet in Porto, Portugal. The Douro River is around 900km in length, contained within the Douro Valley - river and valley dependent upon one another, forming the backbone of what has become the home of the 'gold'. And the gold is the grape.
Portugal is a small country that in the 1400s excited the known world with its seafaring prowess: Portuguese ships sailed the world discovering new continents, trading gold, spices from the east, slaves, and colonising various advantageous route outposts. The empire was vast and rich and Portugal ruled the waves.
So it was without hesitation that I booked a river cruise in this 'under the tourist radar' country.
The journey began in Lisbon. A tour around the city to get acquainted and feel the rhythm of the country happened on a day so windy that the harbour was being beaten around with white-capped waves. The wind made it all the more picturesque when we tried to keep a steady hand photographing the Belem Tower. Belem (from Bethlehem) is an historic part of the city from where the great navigators sailed to gain glory for themselves, their king and queen, country and God.
Portugal has lived through centuries of visits from uninvited guests such as Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Visigoths and Moors - religions came and went, but along with the Latin language, the catholic church set up shop and stayed.
The amazing churches and cathedrals are testimony to a variety of indulgent architects dating from the 12th century, covering all eras, styles and whims, and confirming the role of the church here. The old parts of town, Amalfa, Castelo and Graca lead us into a fascinating weave of tangled streets, steep and slanted alleys that point to the hills around Lisbon.
The random medina-like Amalfa was once a desirable, high-rent district for the Moors but real estate values plummeted after a massive earthquake. It was one of the few districts to survive the big one in 1755.
Tiny bars, restaurants and grocery shops are packed into this enclave. There are a few 'fado' bars too which, considering their locations, give more authenticity to the mournful, soul music of the melancholy Portuguese personality.
Out of town we visited Sintra, 'up the hill' from Lisbon. Sintra is a charming, 'shabby chic' village. Coloured baroque castles and the knobby ruins of a Moorish castle, fairytale houses on the sides of cliffs and imposing mansions are part of the mediaeval, romantic architectural mix. Sintra's historic town centre is on the Unesco World Heritage list - an exceptional, almost slumbering place to linger longer.
We were to embark on our Duoro River cruise from Porto and on the drive north from Lisbon we stopped in Portugal's third largest city, Coimba, home to one of the oldest universities in Europe. We reverently walked through the Biblioteca Joanina, the jewel of the university. After marveling at the splendid collection of books, we enjoyed a lunch at a local pousada. (A pousada is a type of exclusive and often historical hotel. Each pousada has its own restaurant serving regional and local cuisine and wines.)CRUISE CONTROL
We arrive at the boat, the handsome Douro Queen which is ready with her welcoming staff to take us on the golden river. My cabin is spacious and the balcony a luxury. We find a wide sun deck, an elegant lounge and dining room with tables already laden with appealing food for lunch. Heaven! Unpacked and made ourselves at home, we were ready to take on the Douro. Itching to get going, Porto calls.
This is an exquisite city - the 'city of the bridges'. Not as polished as Lisbon but it exudes a cheerful ambience. The architecture is haphazard and drapes itself across the cliffs of old Porto. Ancient alleyways, extravagant baroque churches, romantic style apartment buildings, art deco cares and shop facades and a wild personality are on show at every blink of an eye. Architecture buffs will realise their dreams here.
But it hasn't become too 'Euro-cool'. There are still a few drunks accessorising steps of shops around town, some mangy-looking dogs hanging about sniffing the breeze and many buildings decomposing at their own pace.
Back on board we head to our cabins, don our Vasco pyjamas and sleep solidly to the light wash of the river gently rocking the boat.
As each day unfolds, the scenery becomes more breathtaking. Steep slopes in variegated greens pour down to the river from on high with razor-sharp terraces growing the grapes of the region for the fine wines and fortified wines that Portugal is famous for. On most parts of the river there is not a sound except for the muted hum of the boat's engine and the odd bird call. Small villages on high, wide terraces emerge way up on the ridges, and 'wine' lodges sit close enough to the river bank to be visited by passing boats.
On the river we pass through steep, industrial locks - this is a strange, mechanical affair and part of the adventure of the Douro.FIRST STOP, REGUA
Our first landing is an excursion to Lamego from the port of Regua. The old Episcopal city is crowded with a wealth of baroque churches - and the big mama here is the 18th century pilgrimage church Nossa Senhora do Remedies (Our Lady of the Remedies). Red faced, puffing pilgrims walked to the top on zigzagging crazy steps. I caught a bus to the top and walked down, seemed easier softer option.
Next day we explore Pinhao, the epicentre of the port wine making region. A visit to the Wine Academy reinforced most people's opinion of themselves - yes, they did know how to drink wine. Back on board for the captain's dinner - and a fine affair that was too.INTO SPAIN
The next day we moored at Vega de Terron, Spain. Traveling into Spain was just a step away from the ship. We bussed it across the Spanish meseta (inner plateau) and after an hour reached our glittering destination - Salamanca. What a Devine city and what a treat the river cruise was proving to be. After sightseeing around the mediaeval university city we headed for the magnificent Plaza Mayor - Spain's grandest and largest square.
The days continue to begin in suspense – where to today? Castel Rodrigo is an ancient walled city dating back to the 12th century – strange and abandoned by the modern world, there are only a few inhabitants living there including a few sleek cats. We can see as far as Spain and the Douro Valley from this great height. After the unearthly silence of Castel Rodrigo, the evening spent at a vintage hotel set in a magnificent 18th century mansion gets noisy and happy. We ate the local cuisine and wondered at the tradition of serving double carbs with protein. We ate pork and gravy with rice and potatoes – not that we were complaining, mind you!
The cruise along the Douro River and through the magic valley is one of the great river journeys of the world.Developers haven’t discovered the glorious landscape yet, and the river is not crowded with other ships. It will be a terrible shame if it ever changes here but a few words to Our Lady of the Remedies might just keep the Philistines at bay.
