BY DAVE HULSMAN, editor ucango.com.au.
Before we start, let’s get a few things straight. I’m no food connoisseur. I’m no Gordon Ramsay, I’m no MasterChef and I’m certainly not a pretentious ‘fine diner’ that’ll only eat if the food sits proudly at the centre of an oversized plate as if it were Michelangelo’s latest creation.
But I do like a good feed and often base my travel plans around this daily activity. Consequently, I reckon I’ve got a fair understanding of what constitutes a good meal.
But the older I get the closer I drift towards favouring a meal of better quality… and perhaps just a few festive seasons away from this ‘pretentious fine diner’ title. Fortunately, one of my favourite holiday destinations, Bali, has mirrored my gastronomical journey.
No, I’m not kidding. While the Kuta circus keeps attracting mass after mass of Australian’s fuelled by street-meat and cheap Indonesian rice wine, squeezing every last drop of their limited budget, a different clientele has emerged just a few kilometres up the road in Seminyak. A clientele who’s happy to forgo the economical advantages of Kuta for a more comfortable holiday.
Consequently, as my circumstances have changed through the years so has the location of where I spend my Bali holiday... from Tuban to Kuta to Legian and just last month, Seminyak – the Sofitel to be precise (and fantastic, by the way)
But today we’re talking about food, not resorts. And didn’t Seminyak deliver.
In Seminyak, the dining is centred around Jalan Laksmana… often referred to as Eat Street. At first glance, it’s really not a lot different to most of Bali’s other streets… it’s not neat, the footpath is uneven, the ever-present scooters still line the street and you could even argue it still has that feel of seediness that is so familiar to a lot of the Asian tourist destinations.
The dining options that line this street, however, are certainly not what I was used to on my eight previous Bali trips. It was goodbye to Nasi Goreng and hello to Black Truffle Risotto, Beef Rendang Envelopes and Soft Shell Crab.
For our first night we chose the impressively modern and highly regarded Chandi (www.chandibali.com ). We waltzed in at around 7pm, and were greeted toa fairly empty restaurant so assumed we’d have the pick of the best tables. However, we then became aware that reservations were the norm and chose the best spot out the last two tables available.
So we sat down and emerged 90 minutes later with a belly full of Spicy Tenderloin Lettuce Cups; Black Pepper Crab Dumplings with Sugar Snap Peas in a Soy Butter Cardamom Vinaigrette; Lemongrass Steamed Red Snapper; and Grilled Sliced Tenderloin with Herbed Mashed Potatoes& Sweet Soy Galangal Broth. Satisfied. Surprised. And an angle for my article.
Sure, there were a few dishes that didn’t really tickle my fancy and seemed to borderline on previously-stated ‘pretentious fine dining’ (seriously, would you class Chilled Watermelon Soup as a dish???… a juice, I reckon) but nonetheless, this was a dining experience you’d expect at a high-end Australian restaurant. But for a third of the price.
So for the next week we sampled everything from ‘Duck Breast with Caramelized Nuts, Crispy Pastillas, Spinach, Braising Turnip & Orange Sauce’ (The Living Room) to homemade Bircher Muesli (Bali Bakery); pasta dishes at La Trattoria to Club Sandwiches and fish and chips at the famous Gado Gado (which is now undergoing a major renovation, by the way).
However, for every restaurant we happily waddled out of there five others that we didn’t get a chance to sample.
The pick of the lot was undoubtedly The Living Room restaurant which is open only for dinner and is actually a few hundred metres from Jalan Laksmana…. It has a menu that was similar in quality to Chandi but the garden setting and quiet ambience see’s this place come up trumps in my books.
Here’s a list of where we ate…. (But have a search around when you’re next in Bali and be sure to share your feedback on our Tips & submit any pics to our photo library page)
The Living Room (pictured)
Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak. www.thelivingroom-bali.com
Fantastic fine dining experience set about 800m from Seminyak Square. Open on only for dinner and popular for functions. This is where you take your better half for a romantic dinner.
Chandi
Jalan Kayu Aya (Jl. Laksmana), Seminyak. www.chandibali.com
Another fine dining option located in the heart of Seminyak’s ‘Eat Street’. A big restaurant so lacks the intimate environment, but the food is great. Air conditioned. Bookings recommended. Make sure you order the Spicy Tenderloin Lettuce Cups.
Gado Gado
Jalan Camplung Tanduk, Seminyak (on beach next to Anantara and Sofitel Hotels).
A Bali institution since the 80’s. Started as a popular night club featuring a tree in the middle of dance floor. However, has evolved into a classy beachfront restaurant ideal for lunch and dinner. Also an great spot to take your loved one… make sure you reserve a spot on the decking and get their early enough to watch the sunset.
Bali Bakery
Seminyak Square, Jalan Kayu Aya (Jl. Laksmana). www.balibakery.com
This is one of four locations in Bali. Great for lunch or breakfast with sandwiches, burgers and espresso coffee. Menu is similar to what you’d find at any café in Australia.
Trattoria
Jalan Kayu Aya (Jl. Laksmana), Seminyak www.trattoriaasia.com
Popular Italian Restaurant with a couple of locations within 50m of each other. Good, wood-fired pizzas.
Ultimo
Jalan Kayu Aya (Jl. Laksmana), Seminyak
Huge Italian restaurant with a huge menu. Located next to Trattoria. Modern setting with low lighting to set the mood… although the table next to you may as well be dining with you. Request one of their torches to read the menu. Food is great.
Mojos Flying Burritos
Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak/Kerobokan (no website but they do have a facebook page)
About 1.5km past the Living Room. Californian-style Mexican cuisine. I had heard a little bit about this place so I thought I’d give it a try… not much to it, basically a hut serving up a good feed. Nothing more, nothing less. And certainly not a dinig experience like the above establishments. Personally, I preferred the popular Poco Loco Mexican experience in Legian where I ate on a previous trip… but I think it was the midget walking around with tequila bottle and shot glasses that made my night there.
____________________________________________________
Ucango Travel & Cruise can book your trip to Bali. Contact them on 1300 822 646 or complete the online enquiry form on the top right of this page.
Before we start, let’s get a few things straight. I’m no food connoisseur. I’m no Gordon Ramsay, I’m no MasterChef and I’m certainly not a pretentious ‘fine diner’ that’ll only eat if the food sits proudly at the centre of an oversized plate as if it were Michelangelo’s latest creation.
But I do like a good feed and often base my travel plans around this daily activity. Consequently, I reckon I’ve got a fair understanding of what constitutes a good meal.
But the older I get the closer I drift towards favouring a meal of better quality… and perhaps just a few festive seasons away from this ‘pretentious fine diner’ title. Fortunately, one of my favourite holiday destinations, Bali, has mirrored my gastronomical journey.
No, I’m not kidding. While the Kuta circus keeps attracting mass after mass of Australian’s fuelled by street-meat and cheap Indonesian rice wine, squeezing every last drop of their limited budget, a different clientele has emerged just a few kilometres up the road in Seminyak. A clientele who’s happy to forgo the economical advantages of Kuta for a more comfortable holiday.
Consequently, as my circumstances have changed through the years so has the location of where I spend my Bali holiday... from Tuban to Kuta to Legian and just last month, Seminyak – the Sofitel to be precise (and fantastic, by the way)
But today we’re talking about food, not resorts. And didn’t Seminyak deliver.
In Seminyak, the dining is centred around Jalan Laksmana… often referred to as Eat Street. At first glance, it’s really not a lot different to most of Bali’s other streets… it’s not neat, the footpath is uneven, the ever-present scooters still line the street and you could even argue it still has that feel of seediness that is so familiar to a lot of the Asian tourist destinations.
The dining options that line this street, however, are certainly not what I was used to on my eight previous Bali trips. It was goodbye to Nasi Goreng and hello to Black Truffle Risotto, Beef Rendang Envelopes and Soft Shell Crab.
For our first night we chose the impressively modern and highly regarded Chandi (www.chandibali.com ). We waltzed in at around 7pm, and were greeted toa fairly empty restaurant so assumed we’d have the pick of the best tables. However, we then became aware that reservations were the norm and chose the best spot out the last two tables available.
So we sat down and emerged 90 minutes later with a belly full of Spicy Tenderloin Lettuce Cups; Black Pepper Crab Dumplings with Sugar Snap Peas in a Soy Butter Cardamom Vinaigrette; Lemongrass Steamed Red Snapper; and Grilled Sliced Tenderloin with Herbed Mashed Potatoes& Sweet Soy Galangal Broth. Satisfied. Surprised. And an angle for my article.
Sure, there were a few dishes that didn’t really tickle my fancy and seemed to borderline on previously-stated ‘pretentious fine dining’ (seriously, would you class Chilled Watermelon Soup as a dish???… a juice, I reckon) but nonetheless, this was a dining experience you’d expect at a high-end Australian restaurant. But for a third of the price.
So for the next week we sampled everything from ‘Duck Breast with Caramelized Nuts, Crispy Pastillas, Spinach, Braising Turnip & Orange Sauce’ (The Living Room) to homemade Bircher Muesli (Bali Bakery); pasta dishes at La Trattoria to Club Sandwiches and fish and chips at the famous Gado Gado (which is now undergoing a major renovation, by the way).
However, for every restaurant we happily waddled out of there five others that we didn’t get a chance to sample.
The pick of the lot was undoubtedly The Living Room restaurant which is open only for dinner and is actually a few hundred metres from Jalan Laksmana…. It has a menu that was similar in quality to Chandi but the garden setting and quiet ambience see’s this place come up trumps in my books.
Here’s a list of where we ate…. (But have a search around when you’re next in Bali and be sure to share your feedback on our Tips & submit any pics to our photo library page)
The Living Room (pictured)
Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak. www.thelivingroom-bali.com
Fantastic fine dining experience set about 800m from Seminyak Square. Open on only for dinner and popular for functions. This is where you take your better half for a romantic dinner.
Chandi
Jalan Kayu Aya (Jl. Laksmana), Seminyak. www.chandibali.com
Another fine dining option located in the heart of Seminyak’s ‘Eat Street’. A big restaurant so lacks the intimate environment, but the food is great. Air conditioned. Bookings recommended. Make sure you order the Spicy Tenderloin Lettuce Cups.
Gado Gado
Jalan Camplung Tanduk, Seminyak (on beach next to Anantara and Sofitel Hotels).
A Bali institution since the 80’s. Started as a popular night club featuring a tree in the middle of dance floor. However, has evolved into a classy beachfront restaurant ideal for lunch and dinner. Also an great spot to take your loved one… make sure you reserve a spot on the decking and get their early enough to watch the sunset.
Bali Bakery
Seminyak Square, Jalan Kayu Aya (Jl. Laksmana). www.balibakery.com
This is one of four locations in Bali. Great for lunch or breakfast with sandwiches, burgers and espresso coffee. Menu is similar to what you’d find at any café in Australia.
Trattoria
Jalan Kayu Aya (Jl. Laksmana), Seminyak www.trattoriaasia.com
Popular Italian Restaurant with a couple of locations within 50m of each other. Good, wood-fired pizzas.
Ultimo
Jalan Kayu Aya (Jl. Laksmana), Seminyak
Huge Italian restaurant with a huge menu. Located next to Trattoria. Modern setting with low lighting to set the mood… although the table next to you may as well be dining with you. Request one of their torches to read the menu. Food is great.
Mojos Flying Burritos
Jalan Petitenget, Seminyak/Kerobokan (no website but they do have a facebook page)
About 1.5km past the Living Room. Californian-style Mexican cuisine. I had heard a little bit about this place so I thought I’d give it a try… not much to it, basically a hut serving up a good feed. Nothing more, nothing less. And certainly not a dinig experience like the above establishments. Personally, I preferred the popular Poco Loco Mexican experience in Legian where I ate on a previous trip… but I think it was the midget walking around with tequila bottle and shot glasses that made my night there.
____________________________________________________
Ucango Travel & Cruise can book your trip to Bali. Contact them on 1300 822 646 or complete the online enquiry form on the top right of this page.
