Lingering over a cup of coffee in Stockholm's charming old town, I'm pondering why the Swedish capital is so good at cafes.
"The weather," says a woman, pointing at the rain streaming down the cafe's window.
"When it's cold and dark cafes become a way for people in this city to entertain and socialise. Maybe Stockholmers are like the Viennese in that sense."
From the raffish to the funky through to elegant buildings with lavishly ornate ceilings adorned with brass hanging lamps, Stockholm's cafes are filled with well-dressed locals enjoying fika (a coffee break) and fikabrod (usually cinnamon buns).
Like its Nordic neighbours, coffee consumption in Sweden is among the world's highest per capita so it's small wonder that Stockholmers have turned fika into an art form.
Three Stockholm cafes worth a visit to enjoy fika.
FOTOGRAFISKA
While the Swedish Museum of Photography is not strictly a cafe, the views across Stockholm's harbour are enough reason to visit.
Housed in a long Art Nouveau building, Fotografiska is a lovely way to spend an hour or two taking in one of its featured contemporary photo exhibitions.
Head upstairs to the top floor bistro/cafe to graze and gaze over superb quayside views, which look across to the island of Djurgarden, one of the city's most popular playgrounds and home to the Grona Lund amusement park.
Enjoy a coffee as cruise ships from the Baltic slid past and dock nearby while ferries weave across Stockholm's attractive harbour. This cosy venue has huge windows and soft lighting, which makes viewing more like going to the cinema than a cafe.
The cafe also serves salads, pastries, tea, soda, wine and beer.
Fotografiska, Stadsgrdshamnen 22. Details: fotografiska.eu
WIENERCAFEET
If you hanker for a slice of opulence then head for Wienercafeet on Bibliotekgatan.
Situated on one of Stockholm's premier shopping streets, this cafe is the full Viennese experience: crystal chandeliers, dark wood panelling, as well as a bakery and a patisserie.
Cakes and pastries take centre stage and are displayed like edible pieces of art thanks to Michelin-starred pastry chef Daniel Lindeberg. Just as interesting is the glass wall to watch Wienercafeet's bakers sculpt and kneed bread. Over the span of a cup of coffee I watched them work busily on crispy baguettes and other breads while eyeing off my next decadent cake.
Wienercafeet, Bibliotekgatan 6-8, Ostermalm. Details: wienercafeet.com
CAFE STRING
Would you like a lounge with your latte?
Cafe String is not just a place for Sodermalm hipsters to drink coffee but also an informal furniture store where everything inside is for sale. Make an offer on a vintage teak table or settle in over a coffee and watch the creative characters that pass by through panoramic windows. The glass frames are so large that sitting too close gives the slightly unnerving feeling of being window dressing in a shop.
From the colourful, retro decor to the relaxed atmosphere, this place screams bohemian and quirky. Perhaps that's why Vogue magazine recently hyped Sodermalm as Europe's trendiest neighbourhood.
Nytorgsgatan 38, Sodermalm. Details: cafestring.com
* The writer travelled as a guest of Stockholm Visitors Board and Emirates.
